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Pinstriped suits with flared trousers and ochre velvet pants were tucked into sturdy knee boots But his real gig was bicolored leather and fabric pants and patchwork jackets made with cast-off remnants Menswear Goes Back to Basics Jan 28, 3:06 PM EST Men in skirts? Buyers of menswear were given that choice in the Paris shows last weekend for winter 2003-2004 The famed Belgian designer displayed cozy Nordic sweaters, piped collegiate blazers in bright colors, frock or cutaway coats and several combinations of French blue, red and white in various outfits with a toy-soldier look Shown in an art gallery, Kenzo's collection by Roy Krejberg was noteworthy The clothes were worthy of the venue: sharp pinstriped suits, pencil or flared pants, wide notched lapels â€â€? a chic 70s comeback Luxury fabrics came out in classic casual looks with lashings of color at Louis Vuitton and Hermes At Christian Dior, designer Hedi Slimane gave a way-out program, as enormous fake "spaceships" took off from the runway before the models appeared The fashion parades were preceded by fencing and judo demonstrations Jean-Paul Gaultier toughed it out with macho-looking models gulping bottled beer dressed in blousons and baggy corduroy trousers pushed into lace-up heavy boots Worn with shoes with button-up gaiters, the cutoff trousers in clam-digger lengths might appeal to those wanting to affect naive schoolboy charm Meanwhile, the menswear looked wonderful, with yellowish fawn suede coats, tailored and sports suits and beautiful charcoal long leather coats Skull caps, corduroy pants and short "bomber" jackets abounded, with fancy tree prints and knits on the back The furry finale showed werewolf-styles with angora fingers on wool gloves, angora sweaters, coats and pants Younger designer Ron Orb used metallic codpieces on his jeans, worn low on the hip with leather-covered pocket slits Gaultier also offered the occasional half or full skirt But as economies and consumers worldwide are squeezed, fashion items are becoming more basic and wearable than zany But that couldn't change the fact that Gaultier offered wearable clothes It featured generous tweed or corduroy trousers, duffel coats and charcoal striped brown jackets Black satin was a favorite, with pants worn with velvet blazers in midnight blue or brown The models wore slim leather outfits, shiny metallic silk suits, an ivory trench coat, plus plenty of metal bracelets and chain business swinging off wrists Joe and Paul showed off casual winter looks with a teepee set on the runway Belted safari jackets were just as Saint Laurent himself might like them For dressy wear, he showed contrasting fabrics styles with silks, wool, satins and sparkly fabrics The treat at Hermes was jazzy shirts with horse motifs, just like the house's great silk scarves that sell so well Little purses for credit cards or cell phones hung from belts or duffel coats Dominique Morlotti showed a casual collection featuring cargo pants, leather pants, khaki pea jackets and classic pinstriped suits â€â€? with shirts but no ties The house will probably close in the next few months, the president of Thierry Mugler, Perrine Houdoux, said Tuesday Scots wear kilts, so why can't his clients don skirts? Models' heads were covered in bits of silver foil that made the men look like ladies getting a dye job In a sporty-collegiate vein, Dries van Noten showed off colorful outfits in two gymnasiums of a posh sports club At Yves Saint Laurent, Tom Ford inaugurated an elegant new Right Bank showroom with an intimate champagne show Too bad it will be Krejberg's last, as his contract expires At Thierry Mugler, menswear designer Jean-Luc Testu's show at the Beaux-Arts school ended with a black-widow "bride" â€â€? a woman presumably grieving for the demise of the house of Mugler, which specializes in hourglass-fitted clothes for women As at many collections, the pants were wrinkled and "broken" around the instep It was made into a Broadway musical, starring Virginia Capers and Joe Morton, in 1973 " The production, to be directed by Kenny Leon, will most likely begin rehearsals in mid-February, with preview performances starting in mid-March and an opening a month later, Binder added The title comes from a line in a poem by Langston Hughes: "What happens to a dream deferred?/Does it dry up/Like a raisin in the sun?" P " Binder said he chose Leon, former head of the Alliance Theatre Company in Atlanta, because the director "respects writing " Combs auditioned several times for the producer, the casting director and Leon over the course of the fall "We are approaching very seasoned New York theater actors" to fill out the rest of the cast, the producer said, declining to be more specific Diddy, will make his Broadway debut this season in a revival of "A Raisin in the Sun," Lorraine Hansbury's landmark drama about a black family moving into an all-white Chicago neighborhood The exact dates, the rest of the casting and the theater will be announced " Binder said he contacted Combs last September after a mutual acquaintance suggested that Combs "was interested in doing serious, challenging work in the theater "And it has never had a Broadway revival He has appeared in the movies "Made" and "Monster's Ball He's interested in serving the play "We were all incredibly impressed â€â€? he's focused on the work," said Binder, a producer of such off-Broadway hits as "De La Guarda" and "Hedwig and the Angry Inch Diddy to Star in 'Raisin in the Sun' Dec 18, 8:26 AM EST Sean Combs, better known as rap star P "It is an American classic alongside `Streetcar,' `Death of a Salesman' and `The Crucible,'" producer David Binder said Wednesday Combs has no stage experience " The original production, which starred Sidney Poitier, Claudia MacNeil, Ruby Dee and Diana Sands, was a success on Broadway in 1959 and later as a 1961 movie with the same lead cast |
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