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See this article at: http://entertainment.msn.com/movies/article.aspx?news=113409 Menswear Goes Back to Basics Jan 28, 3:06 PM EST Men in skirts? Buyers of menswear were given that choice in the Paris shows last weekend for winter 2003-2004. But as economies and consumers worldwide are squeezed, fashion items are becoming more basic and wearable than zany. Jean-Paul Gaultier toughed it out with macho-looking models gulping bottled beer dressed in blousons and baggy corduroy trousers pushed into lace-up heavy boots. Pinstriped suits with flared trousers and ochre velvet pants were tucked into sturdy knee boots. Gaultier also offered the occasional half or full skirt. Scots wear kilts, so why can't his clients don skirts? Models' heads were covered in bits of silver foil that made the men look like ladies getting a dye job. But that couldn't change the fact that Gaultier offered wearable clothes. Younger designer Ron Orb used metallic codpieces on his jeans, worn low on the hip with leather-covered pocket slits. But his real gig was bicolored leather and fabric pants and patchwork jackets made with cast-off remnants. Little purses for credit cards or cell phones hung from belts or duffel coats. At Yves Saint Laurent, Tom Ford inaugurated an elegant new Right Bank showroom with an intimate champagne show. The clothes were worthy of the venue: sharp pinstriped suits, pencil or flared pants, wide notched lapels — a chic 70s comeback. Black satin was a favorite, with pants worn with velvet blazers in midnight blue or brown. Belted safari jackets were just as Saint Laurent himself might like them. At Thierry Mugler, menswear designer Jean-Luc Testu's show at the Beaux-Arts school ended with a black-widow "bride" — a woman presumably grieving for the demise of the house of Mugler, which specializes in hourglass-fitted clothes for women. The house will probably close in the next few months, the president of Thierry Mugler, Perrine Houdoux, said Tuesday. Meanwhile, the menswear looked wonderful, with yellowish fawn suede coats, tailored and sports suits and beautiful charcoal long leather coats. The furry finale showed werewolf-styles with angora fingers on wool gloves, angora sweaters, coats and pants. In a sporty-collegiate vein, Dries van Noten showed off colorful outfits in two gymnasiums of a posh sports club. The fashion parades were preceded by fencing and judo demonstrations. The famed Belgian designer displayed cozy Nordic sweaters, piped collegiate blazers in bright colors, frock or cutaway coats and several combinations of French blue, red and white in various outfits with a toy-soldier look. Worn with shoes with button-up gaiters, the cutoff trousers in clam-digger lengths might appeal to those wanting to affect naive schoolboy charm. Luxury fabrics came out in classic casual looks with lashings of color at Louis Vuitton and Hermes. The treat at Hermes was jazzy shirts with horse motifs, just like the house's great silk scarves that sell so well. Joe and Paul showed off casual winter looks with a teepee set on the runway. Skull caps, corduroy pants and short "bomber" jackets abounded, with fancy tree prints and knits on the back. At Christian Dior, designer Hedi Slimane gave a way-out program, as enormous fake "spaceships" took off from the runway before the models appeared. The models wore slim leather outfits, shiny metallic silk suits, an ivory trench coat, plus plenty of metal bracelets and chain business swinging off wrists. Shown in an art gallery, Kenzo's collection by Roy Krejberg was noteworthy. Too bad it will be Krejberg's last, as his contract expires. It featured generous tweed or corduroy trousers, duffel coats and charcoal striped brown jackets. As at many collections, the pants were wrinkled and "broken" around the instep. Dominique Morlotti showed a casual collection featuring cargo pants, leather pants, khaki pea jackets and classic pinstriped suits — with shirts but no ties. For dressy wear, he showed contrasting fabrics styles with silks, wool, satins and sparkly fabrics. See this article at: http://entertainment.msn.com/movies/article.aspx?news=155667 Hamlet' Edition Fails to Sell at Auction Apr 14, 3:19 PM EST A rare edition of William Shakespeare's "Hamlet," valued at well over $1 million, failed to sell at auction when the bidding fell short of the seller's minimum. The nearly 400-year-old book is one of 19 copies of the 1611 printing known to exist and is the only one remaining in private hands. It was owned by Mary Hyde, Viscountess Eccles, a renowned New Jersey book collector and English literature scholar best known for her extensive Samuel Johnson collection, now at the Houghton Library at Harvard University. Christie's auction house had estimated its worth between $1.5 and $2 million. But bidding began Wednesday at $900,000 and stalled at $1.2 million, which was shy of the seller's confidential reserve, or minimum price. Lady Eccles, who was among the first women admitted to the bibliophile Grolier Club in New York, was 91 when she died in August. Her Samuel Johnson collection, and other books in her collection, were pledged to institutions, including Harvard; the remainder was auctioned Wednesday, with a portion of the proceeds benefiting her many philanthropic interests. ——— On the Net: http://www.christies.com |
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