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"It's a question of esthetics not gender," Giorgio Armani said backstage, after his Thursday show, which closed the five days of preview showings Wholesome country-boy by day, and sophisticated playboy by night, he explores his gentler side, preferring tender to tough For an expensive rainy day, Prada plays the knockoff game in reverse, offering Miu Miu nylon slip overs, perfect copies of the ones sold to motorcyclists at outdoor markets Ford has been zip-lipped about his plans The designer indulged in decorative luxury from the braided hussar jackets, to the multicolored shoes and belt bags with engraved silver handles Dolce and Gabbana evoked a symbol of the Latin lover â€â€? the late Italian actor Marcello Mastroianni â€â€? whose role in the Fellini film "La Dolce Vita" gave birth to a way of life devoted to bittersweet pleasure Minimalist fashion is by definition genderless There were lots of proper suits for the up-and-coming professional, as well as super cashmere sweaters for relaxation time At the end of the show, the designer â€â€? whose charm and talent have made him a fashion favorite â€â€? walked the runway with a whisky glass in hand to hoots, tears, and a standing ovation Relaxed Wardrobe the New Look for Men Jan 16, 2:07 PM EST The winter 2004 man likes his comfort 25 million in 2002 The company lost an estimated $7 The collection was more about sportswear than transgender philosophy Evening is all about silk, from pajama-style trousers to silk-printed dinner jackets Black is relegated to the back of the shelf along with gray flannel, while tartan plaids and bright velvets offer a daring color scheme Gianfranco Ferre abandoned his trademark S&M black leather look to offer new romance for next winter The menswear week was full of runway hype, from Tom Ford's farewell collection for Gucci, to gossip about the faltering Versace company, to the invasion of a new fashion sex symbol: soccer players who appeared on and off the runway Ralph Lauren added softness to his country gentleman style, offering bright pinks and greens for casual knitwear as well as sumptuous velvet tuxedos He needs only one business suit, usually pinstriped and often double-breasted "I didn't mean it to end this way," was his laconic comment Gone are the macho styles that defined Milan menswear in past seasons, to be replaced by a relaxed wardrobe of tweed jackets, casual slacks and bulky knitwear The American designer will officially split from the Gucci group in April This new "metrosexual man" â€â€? the recently coined word for an urban, usually heterosexual men with a keen interest in fashion, shopping and elaborate grooming â€â€? wears his hair long and wispy, and prefers loafers, and sporty boots to swashbuckling footwear He raised his glass in a toast before disappearing backstage For Jil Sander and Miuccia Prada, the new style came easy While the Pride label collection â€â€? purposefully wrinkled, faded and stained â€â€? might cause a fashion-dumb date to suggest a trip to the cleaners, her second-line Miu Miu collection was all about safe and sellable clothes Referring to Versace rumors, spokesman Jason Weisenfeld said, "At least they talk about us Calvin Klein, who sold his company to shirt makers Phillips-Van Heusen last year, sat in the audience Thursday, as new designer Italo Zuchelli walked in the shoes of the inventor of clean-cut design It included dark blue business suits, ultra tight trousers, white mink jackets, crocodile loafers and geometric patterned silk tuxedo jackets Versace has repeatedly denied the rumor that Ford would join them after his Gucci contract is up Throughout the week the top menswear designers underlined the new "metrosexual" feel of menswear Both designers chose young, slight male models for their collections, which beyond the exquisite tailoring, could make up a shared his-and-her wardrobe " Questions include whether Versace will go public or even sell to a fashion conglomerate Despite a 10 percent increase in sales in Europe and a 30 percent increase in the Far East, the company closed 2003 in the red Wednesday night's preview show was over-the-top, from the scantily dressed pole dancers, to a hardcore sound track, to the impeccable collection But the long-fringed scarves â€â€? a must for next winter at most shows â€â€? added a tender touch His daughter and wife were by his side, Wells said "There were a lot of people who knew Jack and loved him "< /p> "We're in a bit of a fog," he said Paar died at his Greenwich home as a result of a long illness, said Stephen Wells, Paar's son-in-law Former Talk Show Host Jack Paar Dies Jan 27, 2:15 PM EST Jack Paar, who held the nation's rapt attention as he pioneered late-night talk on "The Tonight Show," then after less than a decade of literate conversation told his viewers farewell when still in his prime, died Tuesday He was 85 |
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